Mostar: luckily my partner ignored me and went in to ask in that bar-restaurant
That day we woke up early. We had a meeting at 10am and Sarajevo, where we had the hotel, was 3h far away. The previous night, we had ordered through the reception to have some sandwiches prepared for breakfast along the way. For me there was no bread, but I brought it with me. The “just in case shopping” is very important! They put some cold cuts wrapped in aluminum foil for me. I didn’t feel really confident with that breakfast and, finally, I chose to eat what I had brought with me from Spain.
The meeting was quite long and, in addition, they wanted to show us their factory. We left there at a very bad time to eat…
Nikos proposed to visit Mostar. To find a restaurant where I could eat, we would do what we did night before in Sarajevo: show the celiac travel card in Bosnian to the restaurants in Mostar. Nikos wanted to see the old bridge! I had never heard of that city before. This bridge, a historical monument that is part of the World Heritage Site, is one of the most famous monuments of the former Yugoslavia, since it has become a sign of the conflict of the Bosnian war, in the 90s.
We arrived in the city and, after parking next to the entrance to the historic center, we started walking through its cobblestone streets towards the bridge.
It was time to eat and we had not seen any restaurant. Again, the three of us were hungry and Djurica and Nikos did not want to eat if I could not eat. I felt bad because they would feel hungry because of me, and at the same time I felt very good for traveling with such great companions.
We were walking along Rade Bitanje street when I saw Djurica enter number 12, where was the Food House & Pub. I told Djurica not to waste time. At first glance, I thought it was a bar, not a restaurant. I was wrong! They had gluten free! Who was going to say that in the first restaurant that we would enter, without showing the gluten-free travel card, we would find food for myself?
Then I went into the conversation. I asked about cross contamination. “Do not worry” they answered me. “We cook everything separately.” I was amazed! On top of that, they had gluten-free beer too: Damm Daura. Even better! I wanted beer!
The weather was great, so we sat outside to enjoy the good temperature. When they brought the menu, the waitress told me – with perfect English – that the dishes marked with “GF” (gluten free) were the ones I could eat. I started looking at the menu in English and there were three gluten-free options:
- Gluten free Spaghetti with tomato sauce.
- Gluten free Spaghetti with mushrooms.
- Gluten free spaghetti with chicken and vegetables.
While we were choosing the food, I ordered a gluten-free beer. Although I’m not a big fan of beer, I’ve always liked a gluten-free beer on a terrace. And even more if it’s in an old town in Bosnia!
As an anecdote, when Djurica came back from the bathroom, he told me that he had heard the waiter asking his partner to give him a glass of the gluten-free cupboard. Listening to this always reassures!
When they brought the drinks, we all knew what we wanted. I ordered some gluten-free spaghetti with chicken and vegetables. I had never eaten them like that before. Djurica ordered the same (also gluten free) and Nikos a kebab sicev.
When they brought me the gluten-free spaghetti with chicken and vegetables I was a little surprised. They brought them in a bed of lettuce. I had not eaten spaghetti like that before! It was a pretty complete dish. You could tell they were gluten-free spaghetti because of the color of the pasta, which was a bit more orange.
We all enjoyed lunch on the terrace of the Food House & Pub on 12 Rade Bitanje Street. In addition, I just remembered another lesson: leave aside prejudices and always ask. If Djurica had listened to me, maybe we would not have been able to eat anything in Mostar.
After lunch, we took the opportunity to walk through the village and see the bridge over the Neretva river. The historic center was crowded. A couple of buses had just unloaded a lot of Asians. It seemed that they saw everything through the reflex camera or the camera of the mobile phone. His hectic pace stressed us a little. Once we left back the souvenir shops area, we relaxed again and we were able to admire the bridge from a peaceful distance.
After strolling for a while, we crossed the bridge again, where a lot of people crowded waiting for a man to jump from the top doing pirouettes. As I understood, that man is part of the tourist attraction. Previous payment, of course. Many years ago, in India, I had seen an Indian do the same. That time I helped maintain the attraction. In Mostar I did not do it.
We went back to the car and, after selecting a rock radio that Djurica could only listen to when he was in Bosnia, we started driving back to Sarajevo.
Back to the hotel, we gave ourselves a rest time in the room. I think none of us rested, since we all answered to pending e-mails.
When it was time to have dinner, we were clear about where to go! We went straight to Kolobara Han, the same restaurant we dined the night before. I ordered the same: beef fillet with rice.
The next day, I was back in Spain. Again with Lufthansa, I could not eat anything. in addition, on the second flight, from Munich to Barcelona, when I asked a steward if they had something gluten free, he started reading the ingredients of the sandwich he was distributing. “Great!” I thought… “You have no idea what gluten is!” I told him not to worry, that the bread had gluten. He answered that he would look if they had a snack for me. He never came back…
You can see the pictures of the trip here.
BY CLICKING ON THE MAP OF GLUTEN FREE RESTAURANTS YOU FILL SEE ALL RESTAURANTS WE DESCRIBED IN THIS POST LOCATED IN THE MAP:
AND HERE WE LEAVE THE CELIAC TRAVEL CARD:
P.S.: Please keep in mind that in this blog I share my trips, anecdotes and experiences about gluten free travel around the world. It is possible that, in any of my trips, I go to some restaurant not trained by the associations where the risk of being contaminated with gluten exists. I kindly ask you to also take into account that the list of references can change. Please, always double check before eating in the restaurants we recommend. Thank you very much!
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