Idioma / Language: Spanish

Ferrol: cliffs, coves and restaurants overlooking the estuary

After that magnificent breakfast we had at the hotel O’Cabazo in Ribadeo, we continued our hurried route to the west. Our next goal was to discover gluten-free restaurants in Ferrol. First, however, we wanted to enjoy some of the scenery the sharp landscape offers there. We had many points of interest on the list, but finally we could only see two: Cala Sonreiras and the cliffs of Vixia Herbeira. Mind you… it was well worth it! 

As a reminder, we are sharing a trip we did in 2019, since what little we were able to do in 2020, we have shared through our youtube channel.

In 2019 we traveled through northern Spain in two one-week trips. Leaving from Barcelona, this limited us a bit in time and we had to go quite fast. We hope that with Vicky we can go back and enjoy this area without so many rushes. We had a lot of places left to discover. 

Our first objective was to get to know the Sonreiras Cove. This cove is to blame (in a positive way of course) for the fact that we did not have time to visit other places in the area. As soon as we arrived in the area we fell in love with the place. To get to this cove we left the car in a parking area at the top of the cliffs. Then we walked along a path that runs very close to the edge of the cliffs. How wonderful! Watching the waves break dozens of meters below was a beautiful sight. In addition, the wind added that marine touch that always makes you feel good. 

There came a point where the path started to go down towards the beach and suddenly we came across those wooden stairs. Impressive! We didn’t count the steps but there were quite a few. Luckily, divided into sections joined by wooden walkways as well. At each level we discovered a more and more beautiful view. Besides, there were very few people. That little cove was almost only for us. When we reached the bottom, we sat down for a while to admire it. In the distance we could see some boats passing by. Later a family arrived to enjoy an afternoon picnic. 

Taking advantage of the low tide, we approached the ruins of what we assumed to be a military construction. 

Jumping over the rocks of Cala Sonreiras time passed by really quick. We were calm because we already knew where we would eat. We had three options on the list. We went back towards Cedeira enjoying the walk and not being able to stop looking back as we climbed the wooden stairs. Visiting that cove had been a great choice! 

Arrived in Cedeira, we parked and started to look at the different options we had to eat. I don’t know if it’s the same for you, but the sea has always makes me hungry. 

Click on the image to access the form

In a short time we saw that of the three options we had, only one was good enough. The other two were closed that day. We sat on the terrace of Pizzeria Lanús, at number 23 Rúa Ezequiel López, right next to the estuary. This is a restaurant that is FACE certified, so we had no problem eating gluten-free in Cedeira. 

The whole menu was perfectly indicated. This time we had no trouble deciding, we were in the mood for pasta! 

After eating that great gluten-free pasta dish, we took a walk along the estuary and went back to the car. This time we went a little north to get to the top of the cliffs of Vixía Herbeira. The road to get to the top already gives you a clue as to where you are going. With steep slopes and sharp curves, as we went along we got the idea that we were in very rough terrain. Plus, we were climbing very high. When we got to the top, we almost flew off – the wind was blowing very hard! The wind farm installed up there must be one of the most profitable in the country (maybe I’m exaggerating a bit, but I wouldn’t be surprised).  

The views from up there were a bit dizzying. In addition, the stone sentry box for maritime surveillance that was built in the 18th century offered an even more beautiful image. The wall just at the edge of the cliff offers the necessary security for anyone who wants to look out. Always being careful! 

We would have loved to spend much more time up there contemplating the views but the strong wind didn’t make it easy. Besides, the air was very cold up there. 

Back in the city, we arrived in Ferrol in the middle of the afternoon. Unfortunately we couldn’t walk around the city because I had to go online to settle some work issues – another reason to go back to Ferrol! While I was working, Isa filtered the gluten-free restaurants in Ferrol that we had in our list. It was like in León. We had a very long list but with few references. Finally, Isa crossed the list we had taken from the gluten-free apps we usually use with other online restaurant platforms. 

Finally we chose to go to the restaurant O Toldo Pulperia in R. Sol, 62, BAJO. Here we went overboard! In a positive way too, of course! We started with some steamed mussels. This is something we never order in restaurants because I am allergic to fish and sometimes there is cross contamination. We were in Galicia and I wanted to be able to at least enjoy some seafood. We explained my allergy to the waiter (apart from celiac disease) and he assured us there would be no problem. Those mussels were so good! 

Then we continued with other tapas or raciones…. I don’t know what they were, but I assure you they were very complete. We ordered some croquettes, but when we told them I was allergic to fish, they said we couldn’t because they fried the hake sticks there too. This was a good sign because they know well what they do in the kitchen and they take into account cross contamination at all levels. Then we ordered some bravioli potatoes like the ones from Tolosa, one of raxo, one of zorza and one of chicken skewers. 

The big problem is that all the portions came with fries. We admit that we left some of them on the plate… 

The next day, we got up a little early to make the most of the day. We had a gluten-free breakfast at the hotel Alda el Suizo, where we were staying. From there we went straight to the Fragas do Eume. Our next destination was A Coruña. 

You can see the pictures of the trip here.




P.S.: Please keep in mind that in this blog I share my trips, anecdotes and experiences about gluten free travel around the world. It is possible that, in any of my trips, I go to some restaurant not trained by the associations where the risk of being contaminated with gluten exists. I kindly ask you to also take into account that the list of references can change. Please, always double check before eating in the restaurants we recommend. Thank you very much!


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Me llamo Santi y actualmente vivo en la provincia de Barcelona. En 2001, me diagnosticaron de enfermedad celíaca… ¡por fin! Además, soy intolerante a la lactosa, la alergia al pescado me mata, ¡literalmente!, y también algunas frutas... Viajar sin gluten se ha convertido en mi mayor hobby y creé Gluten Free Adventures por esta razón. Desde los 8 años, he viajado y vivido en distintos países… ¡aquí comparto mis experiencias viajando para descubrir restaurantes sin gluten, pastelerías sin gluten y heladerías sin gluten por todo el mundo! ¡Espero que os gusten nuestros viajes sin gluten!