Idioma / Language: Spanish

Rupit: a gluten-free weekend break surrounded by postcard scenery!

Whenever we can, we try to escape to nature. And if it can be in the weekend, so much the better! In February, before the nightmare of the Covid-19 exploded in Spain, we decided to go for a weekend to discover gluten-free restaurants in Rupit. We were pleasantly surprised. The first time was the weekend of February 14, a special day for many. For others, this year, one more Friday! Special or not, it was Friday and we were starting a new gluten-free adventure! The experience was magnificent! In fact, we liked it so much that in September we did it again!

We decided to book a quiet room (they all are) in a farmhouse near Rupit, about 15 minutes by car. If you decide to go, use Google Maps instead of the Apple mapping application. I mention it because at first we used the app of the bitten apple and we ended up lost in some unpaved roads that were a little broken… we had to turn around! When we got to the road we changed to Google Maps and arrived on a paved road without any problem.

The farmhouse is called Mas la Serra and is located at km 34 of the C-153 Vic-Olot road. Before reaching the crossroads to this road, the landscape is already very beautiful. I think the mountain range that you can see in the distance is the Collsacabra, beautiful! If you arrive in the afternoon, the sunset from the road to the farmhouse is the first dose of disconnection you will receive. When we arrived, the two times we went we were welcomed by Emilià, who takes care of the house.

We had spoken to him a week before we went to inform him of our allergies and intolerances. “Cap problema!” he told us. And in fact, there was no problem at all. Between the fact that there are very few rooms (between 5 and 8, I’d say; big plus!) and the fact that not everyone dined there, the gluten-free dinner was quite easy. In fact, there was no risk of cross-contamination because he had adapted the dinner menu (everyone’s) 100% for us.

The first time we went, we started with a home-made hummus tapa with some delicious gluten-free bread pieces. In fact, Emilià told us that he had bought all the gluten-free products in a store in Vic called Delicies Sense Gluten. On this occasion, we had a little confusion due to a translation problem with the oatmeal… They don’t use it, but Emilià told us that he hadn’t bought a “pa de civada” because Isa was allergic. I confused the “civada” with “barley” and well… you can imagine the mess! My fault! I’ll put the name of the cereals below so that the same thing doesn’t happen to you:

Spanish

Catalan

English

Avena

Civada

Oats

Cebada

Ordi

Barley

Centeno

Sègol

Rye

Trigo

Blat

Wheat

Then we continued with a quite typical winter dish, the Trinxat! It’s one of my favorite winter dishes! Although in every place they do it in their own way – a few days ago in Huesca, I ate it with a slightly different recipe – it basically consists of a little potato (and sometimes cabbage) boiled, mashed and mixed. Then you add some “cansalada” (bacon) and, depending on the place, some black sausage. Delicious! My mouth is watering as soon as I remember how delicious the one Emilià served us was. Impressive!

Then he came with another star dish! Having commented on the menu a few days before we went to the house, the surprise effect had been lost a bit, but after having tried the hummus and the Trinxat, we were eager to try that pork fillet with black olive sauce.

The experience was really good. Apart from the fact that we were in a very well arranged farmhouse, in the middle of some very beautiful meadows and mountains, the tranquility in that dining room was even more relaxing. In fact we were not talking! We whispered so as not to break the tranquility that surrounded us…

As expected, the second course was a killer! With only 4 or 5 ingredients: pork fillet, olive oil, black olive, salt and a sprig of rosemary, you can work wonders!

For dessert, Isa had a homemade cheesecake and I decided to go for a little dish of “mel i mató” (cottage cheese with honey).

After that delicious dinner we sat down for a while on the sofas in front of the fireplace to read a little and plan what we would do the next day. The first weekend, we went to see Rupit, the chapel and the Monastery of Sant Pere de Casserres, in the Mirador del Ter.

Click on the image to access the form

The second time, we went to see Rupit and, from there, we walked to the Salto de Sallent. The next day, we went to see the Morro de l’Abella. From there, there are spectacular views of the Sau Reservoir. Although we did it all in 2 weekends, we think it can be done easily in one. In this post we explain it in an order that might suit you better if you go just for a weekend.

The next day, well rested, we went down to have breakfast. They had prepared a gluten-free cake (with cornstarch) that Isa felt in love with. I, on the other hand, preferred the local sausage assortment with some toasted gluten-free bread.

With a full stomach, we were ready to face the day! We left the farmhouse towards Rupit. When we arrived, we left the car parked at the entrance of the village, which costs 3 euros per day. From there, we crossed the suspension bridge and headed to our first stop: The Restaurant of l’Hostal L’Estrella. Coming from the parking, after climbing the stairs after the bridge, you have to turn right and follow the main street. You will find it less than 100m away.

Emilià had recommended this restaurant to us when we called him to discuss the dinner menus. It is important that you reserve in advance, as they are usually full. When we call to book a table, we informed them of our coeliac condition. Automatically, we were asked to stop by when we arrived to talk to those in charge of the hostel and the kitchen. Upon arrival, they explained us the menu and the dishes of the day. With an idea of what we could eat, we went to the Salt de Sallent. I wish it was always so easy!

From Rupit you will reach the Salt de Sallent after walking for about an hour. It is a very easy walk that goes down to the river and follows it until you reach some first waterfalls (these are not the big one) and then until you reach the Salt de Sallent. It is a waterfall of 115m high. Both the waterfall and the valley are really impressive to see!

Also, on the way back, you will have a view of Rupit overlooking the ravine, from below, which is also very beautiful.

Back at the restaurant, we were off to a great start! We were seated at one of the tables in the center of the dining room. From there we could see that, in the center, there was a toaster with a little sign that said: GLUTEN-FREE. Perfect! The first time we went, we asked for a plate of ham and toasted bread to share and then an assortment of grilled meat to share as well. For dessert, Isa ordered some strawberries and cream and I ordered a Catalan cream with the sugar well burned on top. We ate wonderfully!

The second time we went we started the same way: with a good plate of ham! This time, as main course Isa took a roasted chicken with spices and curry and I ordered some lamb chops from Ripoll that were delicious. The truth is that the quantity of the dishes is very good. It is difficult to leave feeling hungry in places like this! For dessert, this time Isa ordered a fruit salad and I ordered a plate of figs. Recently I discovered that this fruit doesn’t make me allergy (because of the profilin), so I’ve become a big fan of it!

When you finish eating, you can go to the Ermita de Santa Magdalena. It is on the other side of the river, about 15 minutes walking. From there, you will see the whole village overlooking the ravine, with the church tower dominating it. It’s nice to see and the walk is pleasant too, because you see a part of the river that you haven’t seen before and you cross a very nice old bridge.

This is also a very good place to see the sunset!

On the way back to town, we have another stop to make! I’ll explain! As I was saying at the beginning, the first time we went there was Valentine’s Day. Emilià had left some cookies in each room as a welcome gift. With us, he had the great gesture to exchange those cookies (with gluten) for some “neules sense gluten” from Rupit’s Neuler. The “neules” are a sweet and crunchy dessert that you normally eat at Christmas. They look like wafers. In Rupit, there is a store that specializes in this type of product and has about 6 or 8 (I do not remember exactly) gluten-free varieties, all year round!

I love the “neules” so this shop has become a must stop every time we have been there!

With the bag full of neules, we decided to return to Mas la Serra to rest a little near the fireplace. After the bustle of the village, this is the best reward! Yes, yes… bustle is the right word. In fact, the last time we went we couldn’t return to Rupit on Sunday because the parking area was full and, in the waiting line to get into the parking, there were two big buses unloading their passengers at the roadside because they couldn’t get to the parking space… I hope they had a reservation at some restaurant!

We just finished the day reading in the rest area of the house, with a sweater, near the fire.

Dinner on the second day at Mas la Serra began with a tapa of chard with fresh cheese, raisins and pine nuts. Everything was seasoned with oil and a little bit of tomato, onion and basil. Great! That day, the bread was different! In fact, every time we went, we tried two different gluten-free breads. The last ones were: one of rice that was delicious; and the second one was Teff. Delicious too!

Then they brought us a cream of zucchini, very soft, with pumpkin seeds. Delicious! In this place, they have a way of cooking that is very soft. All the ingredients combine perfectly, and when you’ve finished eating, you don’t feel bloated. I think that’s why we like to come here so much! Besides, you can tell that they like to cook and enjoy eating, because all the ingredients are very tasty. At one of the dinners we had there last time we went, they served us a cold salad of green beans, tomato, cheese and ham that was crazy! So good! Apart from how tasty the tomatoes were (from their garden, just like the beans), the dish was dressed with an extra virgin olive oil with a touch of mint that was perfect.

Then, Emilià delighted us with a hamburger with caramelized onions lying on top of a bed of delicious al dente vegetables… also, it was topped with melted cheese. Impressive! I love to remember how good each of the dishes I’ve eaten throughout my travels was, since the ones that were worthwhile (like the ones from this getaway), make my mouth water at every paragraph.

This time, for dessert, we decided to order a crème caramel. Oh, what a dessert! When Emilià told us how he had made it so fluffy, we could see the love they put into each dish. Super good!

Just like the day before, this time we sat down at the long table to look at the route to the other places we wanted to visit: The Morro de l’Abella and the views of the Monastery of Sant Pere de Casserres from the viewpoint at the river Ter.

The next day, we repeated the same breakfast. The cornstarch cake for Isa, and the cold cuts with the toasted gluten-free bread for me! After that delicious breakfast with a view of the meadows in front of the house, we went to the room to pick up our bags. We’re off…

To get to Morro de l’Abella des de Rupit, I recommend you to go till Cantonigròs. Crossing it towards the south, you will reach the road BV-5207. When you arrive at the crossroads from Cantonigròs, turn left towards Tavertet. A few kilometers away, you will find a sign indicating the parking lot. There you will be asked to pay a small fee (it will be good to bring cash). Then, 500m from the parking lot, you will go through the forest until you reach the viewpoint.

There is another guard waiting for you who will ask you for a ticket. Unfortunately, you cannot go all the way because the stone has reached a breaking point where it can fall at any time. Even so, without reaching the end of the mountain, you will be able to enjoy magnificent views of the valley and the reservoir. And if you are lucky, especially in winter, after days of rain or snow, you will see the water falls of the Salt de Tirabous. When we went there it was completely dry, a pity!

From there, you still have time to reach the Mirador del Ter at a reasonable hour. To get there, you have to undo the road on the BV-5207 towards Sant Maria de Corcó. There, you have to follow the C-153 road towards Sant Martín Sescorts. Shortly after passing it, the navigator indicated that we should turn left, crossing an industrial estate. From there it’s a bit complicated… if you take a road that is quite broken and that leads to an abandoned brick house. This is not the right place. You have to undo the path and take one that goes more to the northeast. We left the car and walked till the viewpoint which is worth it!

And to finish the trip, as every time we have gone to Mas la Serra, we quickly went to Vallgorguina to eat in another of our favorite restaurants: El Paller de Can Pradell.

You can see the pictures of the trip here.

BY CLICKING ON THE MAP OF GLUTEN FREE RESTAURANTS YOU FILL SEE ALL RESTAURANTS WE DESCRIBED IN THIS POST LOCATED IN THE MAP OF GLUTEN-FREE PLACES:

AND HERE WE LEAVE THE CELIAC TRAVEL CARD IN SPANISH:

AND HERE WE LEAVE THE CELIAC TRAVEL CARD IN CATALAN:

P.S.: Please keep in mind that in this blog I share my trips, anecdotes and experiences about gluten free travel around the world. It is possible that, in any of my trips, I go to some restaurant not trained by the associations where the risk of being contaminated with gluten exists. I kindly ask you to also take into account that the list of references can change. Please, always double check before eating in the restaurants we recommend. Thank you very much!

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